South Street — China Travel

Nantong's South Street traces its origins to the early twentieth century, when the industrialist and reformer Zhang Jian — often called the father of modern Chinese industry — began planning his hometown as a model city. Much as Haussmann reshaped Paris in the same era, Zhang envisioned a modern urban core where commerce, education, and civic pride converged. Between 2022 and 2025, the street underwent a sensitive restoration that preserved its historic fabric while introducing new cultural programming, ensuring it remains a working neighbourhood rather than a museum piece. The phrase "one South Street, half of Nantong" speaks to its enduring centrality in the city's commercial and emotional geography. The street's defining landmark is the Nantong Clock Tower, completed in 1914 and now a provincially protected heritage site. Standing alongside its companion drum tower, the structure blends Chinese and Western architectural idioms in a manner reminiscent of civic towers found across colonial-era port cities from Shanghai to Marseille. Down the street, the narrow lanes of Temple Street preserve clusters of Ming and Qing-era courtyard houses, their timber-framed halls and weathered brick walls offering a glimpse of pre-industrial Chinese urbanism. Tucked between them, the redeveloped Dinggujiao Art Alley transforms former shopfronts into small galleries and creative studios. Culturally, South Street functions as a living archive of Nantong life. Long-established names such as Siyi Glutinous Rice Cake Shop and Feijia Braised Chicken carry forward recipes that have anchored local diets for generations, while pop-up events featuring traditional blue-printed fabric and folk processions keep intangible heritage visible in everyday routines. The street's blend of cash-only family businesses and modern department stores creates a commercial ecosystem that feels recognisably Chinese yet increasingly rare. Visiting is straightforward: South Street is open around the clock with no admission fee, and the Metro Line 2 stops at Hepingqiao or Youyiqiao stations within walking distance. Arriving in the late afternoon is recommended, as snack vendors typically begin setting up after 2 p.m. and the clock tower looks its best under evening light. Drivers should note that parking is extremely limited due to narrow lanes shared with pedestrians and cyclists, and most visitors arrive on foot or by metro. For Western travellers, South Street offers something often missing from the standard China itinerary: a mid-sized city seen through the eyes of its residents rather than its tour buses. Pair a stroll here with an evening cruise along the nearby Haohe moat and a morning visit to the Nantong Museum, founded by Zhang Jian in 1905 as China's first public museum, for a richly textured half-day or full-day cultural experience. Come hungry, bring small bills, and allow yourself to wander — the street rewards curiosity more than any checklist.