Fragrant Hills Park

The mountain's imperial pedigree stretches back to the 12th-century Jin court, but it was the Qianlong Emperor who, between the 1740s and 1760s, transformed it into the Jingyi Garden—one of the celebrated "Three Hills Five Gardens" lining Beijing's northwest, in spirit a Chinese cousin to French royal retreats like Fontainebleau or Compiègne. The original garden boasted 28 named scenic spots, most destroyed by Anglo-French forces in 1860 and again in 1900. Surviving fragments, including the delicate Jianxin Zhai pavilion, offer glimpses of the lavish design that once unfolded across these slopes. The park's signature spectacle is its autumn canopy. From late October through mid-November, the slopes erupt in crimson as Chinese smoke trees turn—a seasonal pilgrimage as culturally significant for Beijingers as Japan's momiji viewing rituals. The Incense Burner Peak, at 557 meters the park's highest point, rewards climbers with sweeping views across the capital, where the CCTV Tower and Olympic landmarks glitter in the distance. Spring brings wildflowers and fresh green, while winter cloaks the pines in snow for quieter, contemplative beauty. Architecturally, the park layers a millennium of faith and power. Fragrant Hills Temple, founded in the Tang era, preserves atmospheric ruined stone ramparts that ground the site in Buddhist heritage. Biyun Temple, an ornate Ming-Qing complex crowning the northern ridge, houses the clothing-cenotaph and memorial hall of Sun Yat-sen—founder of the Republic of China—creating a striking cross-cultural intersection; access requires the combined ticket. Equally resonant is the modest Shuangqing Villa, where Mao Zedong and the Communist leadership plotted the founding of the People's Republic in spring 1949, now preserved as a revolutionary museum. The park lies about 20 kilometers northwest of the city center at 40 Mai Mai Jie, Haidian District. Reaching it is straightforward: ride Metro Line 10 to Bagou Station, then transfer to the charming modern Western Suburban Line tram that glides through rustling poplar groves directly to Xiangshan Station. Admission is refreshingly modest—just ¥10 in peak season (April 1–November 15) and ¥5 in winter; a combined ticket including Biyun Temple costs ¥15. Foreign visitors must reserve in advance through the "Xiangshan Park" WeChat official account and present their passport at the gate. For a comfortable visit, arrive on a weekday morning between 6:00 and 9:00 to avoid both the heat and the weekend crush. Enter through the East Gate and follow a logical circuit: the Qing imperial administration hall of Qinzheng Dian, then the leafy compound of Shuangqing Villa, onward to the atmospheric ruins of Fragrant Hills Temple, and finally a hike or cable car to the summit—roughly three to four hours in total. Sturdy non-slip hiking shoes are essential, as granite steps grow slick with leaf litter, and bring ample water. The entire park is a Grade A fire-prevention zone: smoking and open flames are strictly prohibited throughout, so plan accordingly.

Traveler reviews